year; in warm weather, many aphid species can develop from nymph to reproducing adult in 7-8 days. Since each adult aphid can produce upwards of 80 offspring within a week, aphid populations can increase very rapidly.

Small numbers of leaf-feeding aphids are usually do not cause significant damage to gardens and plants. However, large populations cause curling, yellowing, and distortion of leaves and stunting of shoots. They also produce a sweet, sticky substance known as honeydew, which often turns black with the growth of a fungus called “sooty mold fungus”, which can discolor leaves and cause stress to the plant by preventing sunlight from reaching plant cells for photosynthesis. Some aphid species inject a toxin into plants that can further distort growth.

Habitat:
Aphids are common pests of nearly all indoor and outdoor vegetable and ornamental plants, as well as crops such as cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, melons, beans, potatoes, lettuces, beets, among others. They transmit viruses to them that cause yellowing, mottling, curling of leaves and stunted growth.

Aphids injure plants by directly removing plant juices (sap from phloem tissues) from leaves and shoots; some aphid species are soil dwellers that attack plant and vegetable roots, which can cause them to wilt and die. The sooty mold fungus caused by their honeydew production also causes unsightly discoloration and attracts a variety of pests, especially the ants that feed on the sticky sweet substance.

Interesting Fact:
Due to their fondness for honeydew, ants are often a sure sign that an aphid infestation is present, especially on trees and shrubs. Outdoor furniture, sidewalks, and even cars under trees infested with aphids can become covered with the sticky fluid. If large numbers of ants are seen climbing up your tree trunks, check for aphids (or other honeydew-producing insects) on limbs and leaves above. To protect their food source, ants ward off many predators and parasites of aphids; conversely, management of ants is a key component of aphid control.

Control:
Before planting vegetables, check surrounding areas for sources of aphids and remove them. Aphids often build up on weeds and move onto crop seedlings after they emerge. Check transplants for aphids and remove them before planting.

Another way to reduce aphid populations on sturdy plants is to knock them off with a strong spray of water. Most dislodged aphids will not be able to return to the plant, and their honeydew will be washed off as well. Using water sprays early in the day allows plants to dry off rapidly in the sun and be less susceptible to fungal diseases.

Where aphid populations are found on a few curled leaves or new shoots, the best control may be to prune these areas out and dispose of them. In large trees, some aphids thrive in the dense inner canopy; thinning these areas out can make the habitat less suitable.

Natural enemies, such as the lady beetle, can also be helpful in the control of aphids, especially in gardens not sprayed with pesticides that kill natural enemy species. Natural enemy populations usually do not appear in significant numbers until aphids begin to be numerous.

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